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Thread: The difference in 4k bevel setting and the differences to look for.

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    Senior Member S0LITARYS0LDIER's Avatar
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    Default The difference in 4k bevel setting and the differences to look for.

    Well I'm officially new to the whole 1-4-8 progression.. It seems like everything I've learned using naturals and barber bones isn't much help, my strokes are even longer and the feedback is much different but still a 1-4/8 seems fairly straightforward..

    I've only attempted 2 razors while didn't shave well at all, and feel silly that I can get a great edge using other methods but the easiest method I don't know squat about. So I develop a white line at the edge looking from the side of the razor.. I feel like once you see this you are SOL (overhoned) and must reset the bevel. That's all fine and dandy except. The tests I have come to be fond of don't respond the same to a 4k bevel set. I would rather use the 4k and save steel but have no clue what I'm looking for, sensation wise.

    I have only had these naniwas for a day so I didn't excpect to nail an edge.. But to at least get something shaveable...

    What are the main differences between a 1k and 4k bevel set. How do you know the bevel is set on the 4k? Because at th 1k I can pop hair a few mm above skin but after 4k nothing.. Because the edge gets smoother? Less toothy? And that sharpness won't come back around till 8k?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    No expert, but when I see a thin white line at the edge I take it to mean I have not honed out to the edge. Maybe lighten up on the weight applied while honing on the 4K hone. Are you using a Nani 3K hone?

    Bob
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    Senior Member rodb's Avatar
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    I never use the above the skin test until 8k as it can be unreliable before that. At skin level there should be a difference between a 1k and 4k with less effort to cut and even more so at 8k, for my hair, tree topping starts at 8k and will top even better after my finishing stone and the CrOx paddle.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Which stones are you using and did you lap and round or bevel the edges well. Some need to be lapped a couple times to get a good edge.

    Sounds like you do not have a bevel set edge and are only getting a partial set at 8K, this is not uncommon. Photos would help.

    First get good magnification, lighted 60X and make sure the bevel is fully set from heel to toe, and use ink to ensure, the bevel is completely flat. Looking from the side will tell you if your edge is straight and chip free, but not if it is fully set, (and meeting).

    Here is a good post (My first honing attempt with photos) very similar to what you are asking. Post 41 shows what a fully set bevel looks like. Look straight down on the edge. Hair test are hit & miss.

    A good, properly prepped 4k can absolutely set a bevel quickly, but if you have to do repair a 1k is quicker and can often save metal when used properly, as odd as that sounds…

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    Clarify please what these hones are. Naniwa does not make a 4k as far as I know.
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    Senior Member S0LITARYS0LDIER's Avatar
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    Naniwa gouken Hayabusa and Fuji. Not very common but a 4k and 8k stone.

    Y'all learn something new everyday. Not any difference between them and the regular naniwas I don't think.. Just made for Japanese market.
    Last edited by S0LITARYS0LDIER; 10-16-2015 at 06:53 PM.

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    Senior Member S0LITARYS0LDIER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodb View Post
    I never use the above the skin test until 8k as it can be unreliable before that. At skin level there should be a difference between a 1k and 4k with less effort to cut and even more so at 8k, for my hair, tree topping starts at 8k and will top even better after my finishing stone and the CrOx paddle.

    See I'm not used to the tree topping only at 8k. Usually it has been much earlier but I was using other methods. Thanks rob! I know I'm not crazy. I'll arm hair skin level at 4k and then after 8 tree top. Going to use Lynn's circle method.

    Mostly I just wanted to know how to tell when a bevel is set on a 4k

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER View Post
    Naniwa gouken Hayabusa and Fuji. Not very common but a 4k and 8k stone.
    OK then, they are not what a lot of people use on here. Most use Nani SS or Chosera type hones in that progression. Not may may even know what to expect from them. OTH I still think you have not honed to the edge either by too much weight or the bevel was not really set on the 1k first.

    Bob
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    Senior Member S0LITARYS0LDIER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobH View Post
    OK then, they are not what a lot of people use on here. Most use Nani SS or Chosera type hones in that progression. Not may may even know what to expect from them. OTH I still think you have not honed to the edge either by too much weight or the bevel was not really set on the 1k first.

    Bob
    Okay i'll go back and reset the bevel.. In regards to my naniwas.. I think really most naniwas preform the same regardless of what line they come from. They aren't anything to dump a working set of hones for. I just have never owned quality water stones. That being said I have used Norton 4/8 and Naniwa SPecialty briefly, never learned. Same type of feel. I just have never really practiced this method. I'll try setting the bevel on the 4k... I'll knock the edge on a jointing stroke.. I know I am done setting it when.... ?


    The TPT wouldn't be as sticky would it? Would I feel for a more refined edge?

    What would the TNT feel like?

    This is where i was headed with this thread. Not how to get a razor shave ready with a 4/8 k waterstone, that can be read in the million other threads regarding it.

    I've never set a 4k bevel before...

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Haroldg48's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S0LITARYS0LDIER View Post

    I've never set a 4k bevel before...
    Neither have I....maybe someone will come along who has.
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