Thread: Edge still stroppable after 4 layers of tape?

Hey all,

So I have a boker razor that I assume used to be a 5/8", but is now a 4/8". I got it used a while ago, has a LOT of spine wear, and had been breadknifed. I could cut myself at all if I tried (and I tried!). I decided to try and get an edge on it. Without using tape the bevel became too wide, and upon closer inspection was very brittle and prone to micro-chipping. So I had to add tape. I ended up needing 4 layers of tape to get a narrow, sharp, and sturdy looking bevel. I shaved with it tonight, not the smoothest, but it was quite fine and shave-ready. I stropped it after I honed still leaving the tape off, but it's off now.

This isn't a razor that I plan to use regularly or anything, since I have great razors that I use daily. This was more of a challenge to get one heck of a worn and dull razor sharp. (which worked )

I know adding 1 layer of tape doesn't affect the angle that much, and the slack/give of the strop is enough to account for the angle difference. But does that still apply when 4 layers of tape where used to create the bevel?

Thanks for the replies!

in my estimation it will affect. you may will need to tape it before every strop. at least 2 layer 's of the tape.
hope this helps

I have an old wedge that I triple taped, and I give the strop some slack when stropping.

I figure that lets the actual bevel come in contact with the leather as it should be.

Also, I almost never use that razor due to that very uncertainty.

If I use 2 pieces of tape or more when I hone, I use tape when I strop. I figured it couldn't hurt

I won't answer your question as I prefer not to comment unless I actually know the answer, usually because I've done it. In this case I haven't. But I'll hazard a guess. First, some background theory. I do believe that outside of an extreme angle, honing quality should not be limited by bevel angles or the number of bevels created. Its the edge you shave off of and the edge that gets stropped, not the bevel angle. I think all this talk about number of bevels and bevel angles is overblown.

Back to your question, which I said I wouldn't answer, I'm convinced that you don't want to have to add tape everytime you strop. So I assume that your talking about just leaving the tape in place. I would start with either approach, leaving the tape on and the razor dry, or removing the tape completely and seeing how the stropping goes.

I'm going to guess, based on my philosophy that its the edge, not the bevel that is the issue, that your stropping will still be effective without the tape. That's my guess anyway.

Originally Posted by AFDavis11

I won't answer your question as I prefer not to comment unless I actually know the answer, usually because I've done it. In this case I haven't. But I'll hazard a guess. First, some background theory. I do believe that outside of an extreme angle, honing quality should not be limited by bevel angles or the number of bevels created. Its the edge you shave off of and the edge that gets stropped, not the bevel angle. I think all this talk about number of bevels and bevel angles is overblown.

Back to your question, which I said I wouldn't answer, I'm convinced that you don't want to have to add tape everytime you strop. So I assume that your talking about just leaving the tape in place. I would start with either approach, leaving the tape on and the razor dry, or removing the tape completely and seeing how the stropping goes.

I'm going to guess, based on my philosophy that its the edge, not the bevel that is the issue, that your stropping will still be effective without the tape. That's my guess anyway.

I'm not sure anymore. I'm sitting in my hotel room with my 5/8 Wostenholm wedge & travel paddle strop. It's hard to say, but I'm not entirely certian the edge makes proper contact without the tape.

I would think that with a hanging strop, there wouldn't be much issue with getting the edge since there is some give.

Dave

Your right about that. Paddle strops are a completely different animal. As much as I hate to say it, the best approach with a paddle is to apply a little pressure. The compression on the leather will fix the bevel/edge/strop geometry issue.

I was speaking only of hanging strops.

time for a new razor

I have had similar issues

I taped, honed, then removed the tape and used a more coarse hone to push the NO TAPE BEVEL very close to the cutting bevel

does that make sense?

two bevels

one for cutting, then build that wide bevel out to come real close

otherwise, I think it would be fine the way it is

I think I'm just going to put on a bit of tape next time I go to use it, then just leave the tape on. See how that goes! Just will have to be a bit careful drying the razor around the tape so no moisture is left behind.

I would say that the razor is still stropable in the normal sense with the tape removed. Maybe a slightly relaxed strop could effect better contact with the cutting edge. I will try it out and edit this post with the outcome.

PuFF

honed an old sheffield full hollow on a 1200 diamond hone followed by norton 4k then 8k, all this with 4 layers of insulation tape on the spine. Not shave sharp but pops hair easy. Blued the spine and the cutting edge and left to dry ready for stropping.
With the tape off and all contact faces blued, I put it over a stiff horse hide strop at normal strop tension and did 4 full laps. The spine and the cutting edge showed the blue being removed. Under 200x it showed the edge was being stropped right to the cutting edge and across the full bevel.
My strop tension may differ form others so this is by no means conclusive.

PuFF