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Thread: Microbevels with the Shapton 30000

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    Senior Member Kingfish's Avatar
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    Default Microbevels with the Shapton 30000

    I am sure others have done this before but I have been experimenting with microbevels with the Shapton 30000. I has given me the sharpest and smoothest edge to date. It is easy to do and is repeatable.
    If you have a Shapton 30K and have not tried it, I would like to know what you think. Here is what I do:
    Basically, create your bevel as normal up to and including your 16000.
    Then the final step, add one layer of tape and let all that 30000 out on a very small fraction of the bevel. Give about10 skillful laps and take a look, TPT or a shave.
    Do not strop or add and further development with paste etc.
    The final edge is the smoothest, cleanest and sharpest edge I have ever seen or shaved with to date.
    Michael

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    Mike

    I have gotten my best shaves to date off the 30K - no strop. I didn't try the micro bevel off the 30k, but I recently sharpened one of my reed knives up as a razor (for an experiment with another member, but that's another thread...), and went to 16K, then put a micro bevel @16K I did strop, though. It was an acceptable shave, but admittedly, I was more concerned with not killing myself, as the blade had a handle like a Japanese razor, but a 3 inch blade!

    I just did my bismark on the Naniwas and after the 8K I put a piece of tape and did 15 laps with the 12K. Again, I did strop and will shave in just a little bit. After that, I'll redo the bismark up to the 30K like you did - no stropping. (my poor bismark - every week something new...)


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    Quote Originally Posted by jendeindustries View Post
    Mike

    I have gotten my best shaves to date off the 30K - no strop. I didn't try the micro bevel off the 30k, but I recently sharpened one of my reed knives up as a razor (for an experiment with another member, but that's another thread...), and went to 16K, then put a micro bevel @16K I did strop, though. It was an acceptable shave, but admittedly, I was more concerned with not killing myself, as the blade had a handle like a Japanese razor, but a 3 inch blade!

    I just did my bismark on the Naniwas and after the 8K I put a piece of tape and did 15 laps with the 12K. Again, I did strop and will shave in just a little bit. After that, I'll redo the bismark up to the 30K like you did - no stropping. (my poor bismark - every week something new...)
    Glad you are on board Tom, it is nice to hear what others with decent sharpening skills really think and get other points of view.
    Now what to H#&l were you sharpening with? I am glad there are other crazys out there, kind of makes me feel warm and fuzzy.
    Mike

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    I have been revisiting this also. Since I don't have a 30k Shapton, I am using my Spyderco UF instead. Again, 1 piece of tape, and I tried 30 laps first on a dry stone. Shave was buttery smooth and repeatable. That was with no stropping. I am now trying to lower the laps, and have also added stropping to the equation. When I strop I am removing the tape. I found that the flexibility in the leather allows it to work just fine without the tape. I am going to back down to 5 laps, on a new edge, and see how it goes. From here I will work my way back up again to find the overkill point. What I would like to see is if it is possible to create a bevel so small that it will be totally unnoticed yet have a positive effect on the sharpness of the blade. I'll let you know what the results are, when I am through.

    Ray
    Last edited by rayman; 09-07-2009 at 04:11 PM.

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    Stropping is King; _fish.

    To me though it is like meeting a great man at a train station. When just as he shares his deep insight a train passes; drowning out what was told.

    I am happy to see others listening to the honed edge. If you are already taping I guess just add another layer?

    Stropping can always be done later, a separate lesson

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    Quote Originally Posted by kevint View Post
    Stropping is King; _fish.

    To me though it is like meeting a great man at a train station. When just as he shares his deep insight a train passes; drowning out what was told.

    I am happy to see others listening to the honed edge. If you are already taping I guess just add another layer?

    Stropping can always be done later, a separate lesson
    Believe me Kevin, no illusions of earth shattering news here. Lynn earlier said he worked with microbevels too and it is still relaively new in the razor world. Ray I don't know too much about the spyderco hones on how they relate, but I am greatful to have you try what you can. It really boils down to a alternative way to finish the blade.Everything else is the same as normal. I don't know what to make of it yet other than it works good enough where all my active razors got the treatment.
    Also gives me some justification for the HAD attack on the 30K Shapton. I hope some Shapton users give it a try or a retry to get more feedback would be most helpful

    M

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    So do these micro bevels last as long/wear as well as a properly sharpened razor with a single bevel? Also, how do you touch up with a razor with one? The same amt of tape used to create the bevel, or with the same amt of tape used when honing (if any was used)?

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    Jury is out as far as longevity Pete. They seem pretty strong in the short term. Touch up would be same amount of tape as you use to make it. I tape spines one layer for primary bevel then one more for micro. Many variations of this can be tried, like you could use three layers on softer steel to make stronger bevel. Or maybe just strop when edge starts to fail, hit the pastes so many possibilities.
    What I want to study and get a few members to help is to try a razor finished with the micro to compare them and get an idea if they are worth doing. It is easy to do and maybe more experienced razor men might not see the benfits as I do now. Hopefully we will find out more.
    Mike

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    I've not experimented with the microbevels personally, but the razors that were honed by others that have a microbevel have been superlative shavers. In theory (you know, the one that I am developing in my head), it would seem to make sense that the edge should last longer because the finest part of the bevel is shorter. Here's an example to illustrate why that's relevant: If you try to break a long stick, it is really easy typically; however, if you try to break a really short stick, it is much more difficult.

    Shortening the finest part of that edge would intuitively lead to a more durable edge. However, as you say, we need to see some actual results to see what happens.

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    Quote Originally Posted by richmondesi View Post
    Shortening the finest part of that edge would intuitively lead to a more durable edge. However, as you say, we need to see some actual results to see what happens.
    That makes sense to me. Tim Zowada has been doing this for some time now on the razors he sells using 3 layers of tape for the secondary bevel. I don't know what grit hone he finishes them with although I have my suspicions. IME at least two of his razors are superlative shavers. Here is his honing method.
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