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Thread: Beginner in need of some rust removal advice.

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    The rust does not look too bad... A couple places look worse than others.


    Even dull rusted razors cut like heck so begin with
    a cautious plan. One plan is to send it to
    someone to do for you....

    You can sand it with some 1000 or 2000 grit wet dry 3M paper
    from the local handy man shop. Most auto stores have it
    as do most small hardware stores.

    Tear off a bit not quite as big as a match book cover
    and then use something to protect your fingers fold the
    paper over the spine and lightly sand pinching the
    blade between your protected fingers.

    Use some of those chop sticks from Chinese take out
    to make a tool to work the corners.

    Spray with WD-40 and finish sand... and hone it
    up.

    The rust near and on the edge bothers me but may
    just be surface....

    Some of the guys in the classified have a set
    of buffers that would make quick work of the
    problem... then they also have a big kit of
    hones to get it shave ready again.

    What state are the scales in?

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    Default rust in 15 min?

    not the hijackthis thread but I have a similar issue I just had my ti honed by Lynn about 2 weeks ago and it started to rust while I was shaving with it it's not horrible and I understand carbon steel rusts but while shaving with it that seems pretty absurd any ideas what may cause it to rust so fast any ideas are greatly appreciated I have more pics if needed

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    Senior Member Caledonian's Avatar
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    I think the above divergence of opinion is correct, for we can't yet know how deep the pitting is, or how the edge is affected. After the timespan described, we can hope for the best.

    Rust is like rats, for if you leave any, it will breed more. I would put most trust in chemical removal, but anything that does that, can frost the surface of the steel. This is not a mirror-polished blade, so I'd be inclined to do it, and rely on abrasive paper of 1200 grit or finer, or metal polish, to make it look as good as a razor with pits can.

    Naval jelly can be localised in the pits with a sharpened matchstick. Or you could hang the blade in dilute hydrochloric or sulphuric acid, starting with a strength which does nothing at all, and increasing till you see the rust loosening. If you don't want to use chemicals, I would stand the blade in alcohol or penetrating and easing oil for a while to loosen the rust, and then brush it very throughly with a brass suede-shoe brush. Avoid rubbing it over the edge, or you will increase the amount of honing needed.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by holli4pirating View Post
    Ron/Utopian may very well be correct, but I have seen razors that look like that BUT the rust is not very deep at all and a clean bevel comes in very quickly. My plan of attack would be to do some circles on each side on the 1k just to see what's under the rust and then decide where to go from there.

    If you don't have a hone, you could use your metal polish of choice. I prefer to start with a single edge scraper (looks like a SE blade, but they say clearly they are not for shaving) to take off the top layer of rust. If you put the edge parallel to the razor's edge and make a swipe from spine to edge, all the surface rust should come off quite easily.
    Dylan has the plan of attack that most all of us that do this every day use,, a SE razor will scrape off the rust, then take it to a hone, as everything else said in this thread is a moot point if the edge is shot,,, Making it shine won't make it shave... Once you scrape off the rust you can tell much much more and it takes seriously about 10 seconds


    Warning:

    Most every experiment using harsh rust removing chemicals on razors has met with less the desirable rusults...
    If anyone has used them with good results Please post a thread explaining the process in detail,, BTW on this forum we have a saying, partly a joke but not always, "Without Pics it didn't happen"

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Dylan (Holli4pirating) also started a thread a while ago about using Maas with superfine synthetic steel wool. I have not tried it yet, but it seemed like a good idea that may be applicable here.

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    Luddite ekstrəˌôrdnˈer bharner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Dylan (Holli4pirating) also started a thread a while ago about using Maas with superfine synthetic steel wool. I have not tried it yet, but it seemed like a good idea that may be applicable here.
    Other than using Flitz because I can't find Maas locally, I've found this method to be my favorite starting point. Put some of your metal polish on the blade and let it sit for a minute or two. Then start scrubbing with some 000 synthetic steel wool. It won't get rid of pitting or devils spit, but it will get rid of active rust and smooth things out.
    If the rust is on the edge spend a couple minutes getting rid of the rust on the blade. Then put it to a 1k and start setting a bevel with circles. After a quick set of 20 or 30 on each side the rust should be gone. Takes maybe a minute or two. After that you can easily see if the edge is worth pursuing it if you're best tossing it or bringing it down.

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    Some kind of Zombie BigJim's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USNHM8404 View Post
    not the hijackthis thread but I have a similar issue I just had my ti honed by Lynn about 2 weeks ago and it started to rust while I was shaving with it it's not horrible and I understand carbon steel rusts but while shaving with it that seems pretty absurd any ideas what may cause it to rust so fast any ideas are greatly appreciated I have more pics if needed
    Rusting while shaving is pretty crazy. Go to your local pet store with a small cup of water and ask them to test it. They will be able to tell you if your water is particularly harsh, acidic, etc. which MAY be the reason you're experiencing this. I don't have a TI, but all of my blades (that I use) are Carbon and don't rust, especially not while I'm shaving.

    *Disclaimer: this is not to say that carbon blades don't rust...even Stainless blades WILL rust given time. AND if you wanted to get really technical you might be able to say that every blade rusts as you shave given that moisture, salts, other chemicals, and oxygen are all present as you shave...a perfect recipe for corrosion.

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    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    I had one razor that started to rust during honing (but it was not normal honing, there was edge repair going on), but that is the fastest I've ever seen. But that stuff came right off with metal polish. I have found that fast rust is not deep rust (it doesn't have time to move past the very surface), so it comes off really easily. Also, that was red, not black. Black near the edge is much more likely "lather burn" - the basic soap causes black tarnish. This happens if there is some leftover lather left on the razor (hence usually from the edge up) or if lather gets into and is not removed from the scales.

    But if that did happen during a single shave (wasn't there before you started and was after), I think some coating on the blade (tuf glide or ren wax are the first two that come to my mind) would be imperative.
    niftyshaving likes this.

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    Because I use a stereomicrope to aid my honing, I many times have seen rust forming on the bevel during honing. This is why it is critical to strop immediately after honing.

  12. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USNHM8404 View Post
    not the hijackthis thread but I have a similar issue I just had my ti honed by Lynn about 2 weeks ago and it started to rust while I was shaving with it it's not horrible and I understand carbon steel rusts but while shaving with it that seems pretty absurd any ideas what may cause it to rust so fast any ideas are greatly appreciated I have more pics if needed
    Rust this quickly -- I suspect you have cleaned your
    razor "too well". Any cleaner that degreases the steel
    opens the door. Alcohol or common bleach will open the
    door.

    Simichrome and MAAS metal polish are good to start
    to remove thin layers of rust but need to be followed by a
    thin layer of oil or wax on a regular basis.

    I have seen rust in five min when sanding and
    polishing eBray finds. Lacking a commercial polish
    a little bit of mudd/ slurry from the surface of
    a fine hone in a pinch of coarse paper will
    work.

    Invest a bit in some mineral oil
    or Camilia oil.

    If you have WD-40 it is OK but only
    last a couple days...

    Review this older thread....
    Using metal polisher on straights

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