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Thread: grizzly g1015 knife grinder

  1. #11
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    I have one, brought it to Charlie's. I use it a LOT when it comes to hogging material, but use my grinder that I can control the speed on for after HT. If you keep sharp belts on it and little pressure, I'm sure you could use it for razors. Only problem I see is that you don't have a small wheel on it, so quarter grind razors is all you could ever hope for. For knives, flat grinds are rather easy. I noticed the other day using it that I need to get some of the hard glass for the flat platen on it and my VFD grinder as they were getting pretty hot.
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  2. #12
    Senior Member bluesman7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottGoodman View Post
    I have one, brought it to Charlie's. I use it a LOT when it comes to hogging material, but use my grinder that I can control the speed on for after HT. If you keep sharp belts on it and little pressure, I'm sure you could use it for razors. Only problem I see is that you don't have a small wheel on it, so quarter grind razors is all you could ever hope for. For knives, flat grinds are rather easy. I noticed the other day using it that I need to get some of the hard glass for the flat platen on it and my VFD grinder as they were getting pretty hot.
    Yes, I saw that grinder getting quite a bit of use at Charlie's. Having the flat platen just sitting there all set up was very handy. As Scott said it was mostly being used for rough material removal, but was very handy for that.

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    im going to side track my own thread a little bit because i dont want to start a new one. Im currently making my first razor, from 01 tool steel in .25" x 1". Its coming along pretty good, im just working on drawing out the tang some more and im going to widen the blade a little more. Im trying to piece together the main steps on what to do after i finish the forging process. any advice or tips on the process as i see it would be grateful.

    1. finish all forging and normalize
    2. rough grinding, leaving at least 1/16" of an edge to take the heat treat
    3. soak at critical temp for at least 5-7 min then quench in oil, repeat one to two more times
    4. temper 3 times at roughly 400 degrees for two hours at a time
    5. finish grinding

    Am i missing anything??

  4. #14
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    That shouls do it. Don't forget the pin hole and makers mark before heat treat.
    Northeastern Texas & Southeastern Oklahoma Mentor/Helper...PM me if I can assist you.
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    Scott

  5. #15
    Admin & Forum fixer Bruno's Avatar
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    Between 1 and 2 should come annealing.
    Between 2 and 3 should come normalization again. 2 or 3 times before finally quenching.
    Happiness is a field, littered with the mangled corpses of your enemies. - Vlad III of Wallachia

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    Just to clarify. Normalizing is taking from hot and letting air cool. Annealing is going from hot to insulated cooling for 24 hours?

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