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Thread: I want to start making straight razors: design help needed

  1. #11
    TRADS,LLC Michael70's Avatar
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    I have never made a razor but from your CAD rendition it looks like the "tang" or as some state the "tail" is way too long or out of proportion extending out wise beyond the scales in photo 1.

    I will echo what others have said here................being a knife maker does not make for a good razor maker. Two different things altogether in my book. But I am not here to discourage you young man just to say do your homework on razor anatomy; buy a few old razors to study the geometry; play with the razors to get a feel of how a reputable well balanced razor is; then do some rough mock ups and learn from mistakes.

    Like some stated don't buy into those hex screws as a way to pin a razor together! I thought I would like that but after having a razor with it it was rather annoying. Also I don't mind a spacer in place of a wedge if done right. My best razor that has held best has a spacer rather than a wedge. Bevels at 17 degrees and uniform and not looking like someone ground it out freehand in a grinding wheel!

    A lot to learn but your 18 almost and many a year to do so! I wish I was 18 again and had the resources you young people have. I had a library and card catalog! I did not really even have internet in college until I was finishing! It would have opened up so much more for me I am sure.

    Good luck and keep us up to date! Who knows......you may become another PRC or BBC!
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    I did some extensive measurements some time ago on a Classic W&B FBU let me see if I can't find that file

    But honestly as Ron said above getting a few Vintage razors and seeing how they actually function and work is the best

    The most common mistakes I see on the Customs that cross my bench,,, especially from clueless knife guys (sorry but it's true)


    #1 Have zero concept of how and why the wedge is actually a "Wedge"
    #2 Scales are WAY to thick and do not flex, nor do they even know why they should
    #3 Wrong Bevel angle Target is 16 - 17
    #4 The use of "Cool" super steels and using way too hard a temper
    #5 Pivot to Tang ratio and fit is built for looks rather then function makes Stropping (Very important) awkward
    #6 Balance is way off toward the scales again making Stropping and even Honing awkward
    #7 Function over Form always and that function for a SR is NOT the same as a Knife


    Anyway that is what I see way too often
    Great info, thanks! I'll definitely do one of the "classic" carbon steels like O1 and make sure that I have a design that works before I worry about the looks. Razor making is definitely a different beast than knife making but I'm excited to give it a shot for something different. If you find that size chart let me know.

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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    A pet peeve of mine is those godawful torx screws that always come loose.
    Traditional pinning is the best fastening method for a razor.
    I totally agree! I think they have their place but for a traditional razor pinning is definitely the way to go.

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael70 View Post
    I have never made a razor but from your CAD rendition it looks like the "tang" or as some state the "tail" is way too long or out of proportion extending out wise beyond the scales in photo 1.

    I will echo what others have said here................being a knife maker does not make for a good razor maker. Two different things altogether in my book. But I am not here to discourage you young man just to say do your homework on razor anatomy; buy a few old razors to study the geometry; play with the razors to get a feel of how a reputable well balanced razor is; then do some rough mock ups and learn from mistakes.

    Like some stated don't buy into those hex screws as a way to pin a razor together! I thought I would like that but after having a razor with it it was rather annoying. Also I don't mind a spacer in place of a wedge if done right. My best razor that has held best has a spacer rather than a wedge. Bevels at 17 degrees and uniform and not looking like someone ground it out freehand in a grinding wheel!

    A lot to learn but your 18 almost and many a year to do so! I wish I was 18 again and had the resources you young people have. I had a library and card catalog! I did not really even have internet in college until I was finishing! It would have opened up so much more for me I am sure.

    Good luck and keep us up to date! Who knows......you may become another PRC or BBC!
    Thanks for the input and encouragement, I really appreciate it. It'll be a completely different experience but I look forward to trying it out.

    I shortened the tail by almost an inch and I think it looks better now.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Lets see if this loads correctly


    Name:  W&B Measurements.jpg
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    That's really helpful! So the bottom of the tang is tapered thinner that the top, making it also look wedge shaped when looking from behind the tang?

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Ummmmm Hmmmmm

    Top to bottom front to back

    This is all for a reason, as well as the scales flex, and the wedge size and angle

    It all works together..

    If you take a few minutes watching the "action" while opening and closing a SR it is rather interesting how all the parts work work in tandem...
    Even more interesting is learning about the evolution of the designs from the 1700's into the 1800's and finally into the 1900's and the Golden Age of the SR's


    It is all pretty cool to learn, and so many never take they time to even bother
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    Quote Originally Posted by StarkKnives View Post
    That's really helpful! So the bottom of the tang is tapered thinner that the top, making it also look wedge shaped when looking from behind the tang?
    As Glen said: the number one mistake of knifemakers is making the spine too thin. The second mistake is usually that they think only in 2D outline, not 3D. Buy a couple of vintage Sheffield or Solingen razors on ebay (rust doesn't matter in your case so buy cheapo) and see how they move. Then tape them apart and measure things.

    And learn to shave yourself, because without shaving you'll never know if something is working or not.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth tcrideshd's Avatar
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    Notice most of the really good advise s to get some real razors and learn to shave. You came for advise there it is. If you want to build a quality product you must know how to use. Balls in your court now, so let's get n with the learning, or just build RSO,s and hang them on the wall. Good luck, but the best advise these guys are giving you should be listened to, they have been doing this longer than you have been around. Tc
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    Quote Originally Posted by tcrideshd View Post
    Notice most of the really good advise s to get some real razors and learn to shave. You came for advise there it is. If you want to build a quality product you must know how to use. Balls in your court now, so let's get n with the learning, or just build RSO,s and hang them on the wall. Good luck, but the best advise these guys are giving you should be listened to, they have been doing this longer than you have been around. Tc
    Oh yeah, I totally agree. That's why I came here, to learn and figure out where to start. My plan is to get some steel and just experiment until I find something that works. I may even find someone to test them out for me to get a second opinion.
    Slawman likes this.

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