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Thread: Forging a razor from a piece of bar stock

  1. #1
    Admin & Forum fixer Bruno's Avatar
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    Default Forging a razor from a piece of bar stock

    This is how I forge wootz razors from a bar. Wootz is expensive and you don't want to waste any more than you need to. I just started a fresh bar (2K$) and thought it would be nice to show the process.

    First, I draw a piece of the big bar out into a smaller bar that is more appropriate for making a razor. And then I first forge out the tang and the tail from there. Then I draw the next part out just a bit more until it is the right size for forging out the blade hollows.

    I u...se a cut off hardy to separate the blade section most of the way from the rest of the bar. I cut enough that I can hammer in the hollows without bending things in awkward angles, but I leave enough that I can use the bar to handle the blade. And then after hammering out the hollows I cut off the finished razor blank using the hardy.

    As you can see, this way the blank is already hollowed partly and shaped the way I want. The belt grinder is then only needed to clean up the lines and flats, and deepen the blade hollows.



    Happiness is a field, littered with the mangled corpses of your enemies. - Vlad III of Wallachia

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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    Nice, i like how you planned it out to minimize most all waste.
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    Northeastern Texas & Southeastern Oklahoma Mentor/Helper...PM me if I can assist you.
    God Bless,
    Scott

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    Admin & Forum fixer Bruno's Avatar
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    Indeed. careful forging is going to let me squeeze one or 2 more razors out of that bar.
    And I have to say I LOVE this gas forge. Being able to evenly heat a piece of steel and look at it while it is heating makes forging a lot easier. Firstly because even heat means everything moves the same, and it allows me to figure out each next step while it is heating so I don't have to look at it first after taking it out of the fire.
    Happiness is a field, littered with the mangled corpses of your enemies. - Vlad III of Wallachia

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    Moderator Hirlau's Avatar
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    Bruno, how do you tell the temperature inside the forge, don't steel have to be heated to a certain temperature?

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    Senior Member Jlander's Avatar
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    I'm guessing temp is determined largely by color. That was the way the blacksmith where I grew up did it.
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    Jay

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    Incidere in dimidium Cangooner's Avatar
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    Yup, colour is the main factor, but there are some other indicators too, depending on what you're checking temp for.

    For heat treating (at least the steels I use - not sure about Bruno's wootz) you can tell when it is ready for quenching by testing its magnetic properties. If it has reached a non-magnetic state, you're in the ballpark.

    For forge welding, part of the reason I use borax as a flux is that I can tell when it has reached welding temp by the way the liquid borax moves on the surface of the steel. Kind of like butter in a hot frying pan.

    Bruno - who makes your wootz?

    EDIT: Never mind - I see it's discussed in another thread.
    Last edited by Cangooner; 08-17-2017 at 12:51 AM.
    It was in original condition, faded red, well-worn, but nice.
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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    Yes, by color. Your eye actually gets calibrated with experience. I personally heat treat at night so the light has no influence.
    Northeastern Texas & Southeastern Oklahoma Mentor/Helper...PM me if I can assist you.
    God Bless,
    Scott

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    Admin & Forum fixer Bruno's Avatar
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    For heat treat I can use color, and I use recalescence as a temperature indicator when I normalize to see it I was in austenizing region.
    Forging is done by color. Forge welding is done by color + borax behavior.
    Happiness is a field, littered with the mangled corpses of your enemies. - Vlad III of Wallachia

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