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Thread: Anything possible with a 300mm (11.8 inch) Wheel?

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    I would shoot for 60-ish or a hair less with O1
    bluesman7 likes this.

  2. #12
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    Thanks a lot Spazola (Charlie) and the rest of the guys.

    I'll get down to it and see what I can turn out.

    One last question for now, if I may?

    What belt grades and speeds should I go for initially.

    I have:

    60 Grit - Roughing out/shaping - with that big 12 inch wheel I have?
    100 Grit - further Roughing?
    240 Grit - Post heat treatment - finish grinding (900 RPM)?
    400 Grit - polishing?
    and a few Cork belts - presumably for final polishing?

    Small wheel attachment for shaping the tang etc = Slower speeds so as not to overheat bearings?

    My sander speed control displays in Hz and it looks like 1Hz = 60 RPM


    Quote Originally Posted by spazola View Post
    I would shoot for 60-ish or a hair less with O1

  3. #13
    Senior Member bluesman7's Avatar
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    After HT I use about 900 SFM at the cutting edge
    See my razors at bluesmanblades.com

  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth Substance's Avatar
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    the Bohler O1 is good steel mate stick with the temps etc on the sticker and will work well with Canola oil as the quench medium if you don't have anything else
    you can leave the edge at about 1mm on the O1 and it hold up fine
    do a couple of thermal cycles post grinding then 2 to 3 quenches at 800c in warm (60c ) oil, due to the thinness of steel razors only needs to get to temp and soak for like a minute or 2 each time then temper at 200c for 1 hour & good to go

    I go to 240 grit on the hollows for the my blades & take the tang & spine etc to 1000 grit preheat treat then only need a clean up of the flats & work the hollows to desired finish

    I also have a 800 grit cork belt which gives a nice satin finish used with WD40 on the belt

    the 11.5" will do you well for the 7/8" plus blades with the 3.5" for smaller & hollows

    I recently got a 36" radius platen to play with when I next do some grinding for a full wedge finish hopefully
    Last edited by Substance; 10-10-2017 at 11:29 PM.
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    onotoman (10-14-2017)

  6. #15
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    Wow, thanks Substance,

    Looks like you are just over the ditch from me (I'm a Pom in Auckland :-)

    When you write 'thermal cycles' what's done here exactly?

    Seems like I'll need a Kiln soon too :-)

    Quote Originally Posted by Substance View Post
    the Bohler O1 is good steel mate stick with the temps etc on the sticker and will work well with Canola oil as the quench medium if you don't have anything else
    you can leave the edge at about 1mm on the O1 and it hold up fine
    do a couple of thermal cycles post grinding then 2 to 3 quenches at 800c in warm (60c ) oil, due to the thinness of steel razors only needs to get to temp and soak for like a minute or 2 each time then temper at 200c for 1 hour & good to go

    I go to 240 grit on the hollows for the my blades & take the tang & spine etc to 1000 grit preheat treat then only need a clean up of the flats & work the hollows to desired finish

    I also have a 800 grit cork belt which gives a nice satin finish used with WD40 on the belt

    the 11.5" will do you well for the 7/8" plus blades with the 3.5" for smaller & hollows

    I recently got a 36" radius platen to play with when I next do some grinding for a full wedge finish hopefully

  7. #16
    Admin & Forum fixer Bruno's Avatar
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    I use an 8" wheel only for doing a primary hollowing on forge blanks. That could also be a 10 or 11 " wheel.
    And most of my work is done on the 4" wheel. 3.5" is close enough. I think 72" and variable speed are most important and you have those so you're all set!
    onotoman and bluesman7 like this.
    Happiness is a field, littered with the mangled corpses of your enemies. - Vlad III of Wallachia

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