Thread: Straight razor - starter project

I've been reading some of the posts in 'The Workshop', and am interested in what it would take to make my own straight razor. I've found what seems like a good source for the raw materials, but wanted to see if anyone could suggest what basic tools would be necessary to get started on this project. I'm not looking to start a full on metal shop, but thought it would be a fun project to work on. Also, any good suggestions on resources or a 'how-to'?

You'll need a forge or kiln, files, belt grinders, band saw, belt sander, various grits of sandpaper from about 80-2500, buffer/grinder w/wheels and compounds, drill press, anvil and ball-peen, vise's, etc. The most important element to consider is how you are going to Heat Treat your blade, are you buying an annealed blank? I would suggest you find an annealed blank, then do all the shaping, drilling, filing. Heat treat and temper, then make some scales and pin it together, then hone it. That's the very basic fundamentals. Good luck and share with us how it turns out.

I've been considering this too, as a big project in the next couple of years. I think you need to decide if you want to forge a blade or use the stock removal for a first blade. From what I've seen, stock removal is much easier, but not as "pure" a razor as forging, if that matters to you. Hopefully one or five of the custom makers on here will chime in with some great words of wisdom.

A small set of tools will get you pretty far along in the process.

• a vise or some way to clamp the work
  
• something to cut out the profile, a good hacksaw with a top quality blade (It is hard enough using a hacksaw, do not skimp on the blades). An angle grinder will also work
  
• A set of good files and and a file card.

Those tools will get you to where you to the point where you need to do some hollowing in the sides of the blade. As for the hollowing you can rig up some sort of grinder or you could do it by hand with files and sandpaper and shaped sanding blocks. In the past I and others have put up some ideas on how to grind the hollow with improvised tools. Where there is a will there is a way.

Charlie

Originally Posted by medicevans

I've been considering this too, as a big project in the next couple of years. I think you need to decide if you want to forge a blade or use the stock removal for a first blade. From what I've seen, stock removal is much easier, but not as "pure" a razor as forging, if that matters to you. Hopefully one or five of the custom makers on here will chime in with some great words of wisdom.

I do not agree with the "pure" statement. There are different skill sets involved in forging but both methods result in quality razors. There are romantic notions of the smith forging and bringing life to a hunk of metal, I have them myself. But I know that both methods are equally as valid and both methods turn out good razors. The real magic is in the heat treat not in shaping the metal.

Charlie

Charlie, maybe the way you said it is better. I would love to forge metal, and there is an undeniable romance to it. In no way did I mean to imply that non-forged blades are inferior, and I certainly don't think that. I'd love to learn forging.

However, I'm going to concentrate on the stock removal method for now, as I personally don't have the tools or means to acquire the tools right now needed for smithing. I do have some specific questions about it though. I don't want to hijack the OP's thread, so I will ask them via PM unless he says it's ok.

Well, the heck with it, I'll just ask here. SFShaver, if you have a problem with it, I'll de-post.

What steel and thickness should we be looking at for a 5/8-7/8 blade? 1/8 or 1/4" 1084? I have researched that 1084 is possible to heat treat at home with a minimum of equipment. I personally wouldn't be opposed to using O-1 or similar and sending it off to be h/t, if it meant working it by hand would be easier.

Also, can someone explain the phases of the hardening cycle, i.e. Bainite, Pearlite, Martensite, &c? Thanks guys. I'm loving learning about this.

M_Wall@tampabay.rr.com

Email is for Michael Wall of Sandown Forge in Tampa, FL. I don't know if there is anyone who knows more about heat treating than he does. He is very helpful and can steer you in the right direction, keep in mind he is a knife-maker not a razor maker, but he knows steel.

Austenite is a soft form (annealed), when you reach critical temp the steel changes crystally (carbon structure) and Martensite forms, which is hard and brittle. Tempering reduces the level or you could think of it as saturation of Martensite, thus reduces the hardness and brittleness. Pearlite can sometimes form when Austenite is cooling and depending on alloy composition. More commonly ferrite is present after you anneal. Annealing steel is done by reaching the critical temp, then allowing it to cool very slowly, which is allowing the carbon to diffuse. Heat treating is doing the same, but you do not allow the carbon to diffuse (carbon = hard), you quench and lock in those carbon structures (Martensite forms). This will result in a heavy Martensite composition, which is hard and brittle, so you need to temper to reduce that brittleness. Tempering is actually destroying Martensite, too much and steel is brittle, too little and it is too soft. That's a basic understanding, Michael Wall could tell you more about it.

The angle of the the blade (edge to spine) needs to be around 16 degrees.

I have found this book very informative when it comes to heat treat. It is well written and easy to understand.

Charlie

Here's a link to a simplified chart to ferrous metals.