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Thread: A History And Justification For My Diamond Plates

  1. #11
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    If you do not hone a lot, I would not recommend the DGLP. It is an awesome plate but the Trend plate will work too. You also might want to check out the even cheaper options that Euclid described.
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  2. #12
    Moderator Hirlau's Avatar
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    This thread was added to the Library, in the lapping section. It helps to give direction when choosing a diamond plate.
    Thanks for starting it.

    Hone Lapping 101 - Straight Razor Place Library

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    @Euclid. I don't dispute anything you are posting - however, try searching for those products usinga UK or European reference. I doubt very much that you will find them - that's why Atoma and DMT seem to be the only alternatives this side of the water.
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  5. #14
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    I've had a similar, if more conservative journey than Ron regarding hone and lapping plate acquisition. My main workhorse was, and is, the DMT D8C. At Ron, and ChrisL's recommendation I bought the DMTXX 120 and it does eat through rock at a fantastic rate, but it leaves a surface that requires too much work afterwards, so I only use it in extreme cases.

    My DGLP is much slower than it was 7 years ago. To the point where I lean toward the old D8C for initial lapping. When I get down to less than half of the pencil grid to go I'm usually losing patience and I reach for the Atoma 1200. It works so well I would use it for the entire job, but I want to conserve the surface and make it last as long as possible before it begins to slow down.

    Thanks to Ron for a great reference thread.
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    I would like to have an atoma 1200 but price tag of $90 is pretty steep. What is the best $30-40 option out there. I have a dmt I use now but don't know which one it is. It is in a red plastic base. It does work ok but takes a while. I haven't put it through many tough jobs more to clean the surface layer. I have ther hones I would like to make flat and nice again and want an inexpensive effective (and fast) way without leaving the surface too rough

  7. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    If you are lapping a lot of stones, the $30 CKTG 140 grit plate. then smooth with a 4k. A 4k Norton is a nice refresh stone for the GS20.

    If your just maintaining and finish lapping a hand full of stones, the $35 400/1000 CKTG combo plate.

    The combo plate is the diamond grid one nice, no sticksion, and the 1000 grit can be used for correction and finish lapping high grit stones.

    Recently I have been scrubbing my Super Stones with a Green 3M Scotch Brite to remove the swarf, and then just doing 4-5 refreshing laps with a 1k plate, saves a lot of wear on the Super Stones.
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  9. #17
    FAL
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    Being a new guy, this thread is Very Helpful to most all those who come here to learn the art and articles like this save people Money which is in short supply for many given the world economy, so Thanks Utopian and all who contributed. Wish I had seen this Before I spent a ton on More diamond tools.
    Last edited by FAL; 08-14-2015 at 05:43 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    If you are lapping a lot of stones, the $30 CKTG 140 grit plate. then smooth with a 4k. A 4k Norton is a nice refresh stone for the GS20.

    If your just maintaining and finish lapping a hand full of stones, the $35 400/1000 CKTG combo plate.

    The combo plate is the diamond grid one nice, no sticksion, and the 1000 grit can be used for correction and finish lapping high grit stones.

    Recently I have been scrubbing my Super Stones with a Green 3M Scotch Brite to remove the swarf, and then just doing 4-5 refreshing laps with a 1k plate, saves a lot of wear on the Super Stones.
    For several years I've cleaned my stones with a Scotch Brite pad and Dawn liquid soap. The combo works fast and well with no damage to the stone. My work requires I clean my stones several times a day.

  11. #19
    Senior Member UKRob's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    Recently I have been scrubbing my Super Stones with a Green 3M Scotch Brite to remove the swarf, and then just doing 4-5 refreshing laps with a 1k plate, saves a lot of wear on the Super Stones.
    Is that the foam backed or just abrasive version - or maybe it makes no difference?
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  12. #20
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I use the sponge with the scotch brite backing, we buy them in bulk at big box stores. I hone on a plastic tray and use lots of water in a squirt bottle. I use the sponge side to soak up excess water and swarf as well.

    Be careful using soap, especially Dawn dish soap on synthetic stones, it will react on some and eat the stone. I have a small spot on one of my Norton’s where I put a drop, to test years ago, if foamed up. I rinsed quickly but it ate a small divot that is still there years later, it does not affect performance.

    Read the instructions some stones warn about dish soap, Dawn contains enzymes, as do many soaps. I do use it frequently on my naturals though, with no problems.

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