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Thread: Synthetic progression end result?

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth ejmolitor37's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RezDog View Post
    That is mostly correct. I still do sometimes shave off an 8K edge. An 8K edge on an older Sheffield can be a thing of beauty.
    As do I Shaun, i have a couple blades that dislike my 12k. So 8k it is
    Nothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...

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    Senior Member Longhaultanker's Avatar
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    When I started this hobby I did about two months of research before buying any stones. I decided on the Shapton Glass series. I eventually bought the 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k, 16k, 30k. These serve as the foundation for my honing. From these I branched out to the naturals. Again, much research, I went with coticules, Arkansas True Hards (Hard Black, Translucent), Zulu Gray. Like a previous commenter said, it's what you finish on that's important. That all said, I also have a Belgian Blue Whetstone (BBW) I use from time to time for a mid-range stone and finisher. There are several good options for a honing progression. Get what you want, that appeals to you. No need for anyone to get dogmatic on this.
    Last edited by Longhaultanker; 07-30-2017 at 06:44 AM.
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    Senior Member rodb's Avatar
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    Since day one I've used a Smith diamond 850, King 1.2k, Norton 4k/8k and various finishers. There is something to be said for knowing your hones and being consistent. I literally know that I can get a great edge off of anything with quality steel from this combo of hones. That being said, if I ever get the itch to buy more synthetics, I would try Naniwa because I've heard so many good things about them

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    Senior Member kelbro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulKidd View Post
    I'm not trying to be a smart a** here, but it seems to me that the difference in the final
    edge depends on the final finishing stone....not on what you used to get to the
    final finisher. If you did it right, all traces of the 1-2-4-8 (or whatever) progression are
    polished out by the finisher.

    The differences between the various progressions have to do with ease, speed,
    consistency and personal preference. The finished edge comes off the finisher.

    Right?
    I 100% agree with that Paul but buying/trying different stones can be fun!
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    Senior Member dshaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longhaultanker View Post
    When I started this hobby I did about two months of research before buying any stones. I decided on the Shapton Glass series. I eventually bought the 1k, 2k, 4k, 8k, 16k, 30k. These serve as the foundation for my honing. From these I branched out to the naturals. Again, much research, I went with coticules, Arkansas True Hards (Hard Black, Translucent), Zulu Gray. Like a previous commenter said, it's what you finish on that's important. That all said, I also have a Belgian Blue Whetstone (BBW) I use from time to time for a mid-range stone and finisher. There are several good options for a honing progression. Get what you want, that appeals to you. No need for anyone to get dogmatic on this.
    I have Shapton Glass stones and a lot of blades with hard steel, currently using the 1k chosera, SG 4k, 8k for low and mid range. What do you think about that 1k to 4k gap? I am wondering if I should just add the 2k and call it a better progression? Thank you

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    Senior Member blabbermouth ejmolitor37's Avatar
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    I believe the 1k to 4k gap is doable. That's what alot of guys seem to use, Norton 1k, 4k, 8k. That's what I started with and it works.
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    Nothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...

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    Senior Member ScoutHikerDad's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejmolitor37 View Post
    I believe the 1k to 4k gap is doable. That's what alot of guys seem to use, Norton 1k, 4k, 8k. That's what I started with and it works.
    I could get fantastic smooth shaves with this combo to the end of my days, frankly, if I didn't enjoy playing around with natural finishers.
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    Senior Member dshaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejmolitor37 View Post
    I believe the 1k to 4k gap is doable. That's what alot of guys seem to use, Norton 1k, 4k, 8k. That's what I started with and it works.
    Yeah it what I have been using for a couple of years now, I sometimes wonder if adding a stone right after 1k and before the 4k would set up a smoother edge in the end? I don't like using pressure in the lower grits and find myself using a lot of passes on the 4k to remove 1k scratches.

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    Senior Member rodb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dshaves View Post
    Yeah it what I have been using for a couple of years now, I sometimes wonder if adding a stone right after 1k and before the 4k would set up a smoother edge in the end? I don't like using pressure in the lower grits and find myself using a lot of passes on the 4k to remove 1k scratches.
    Using circles on the 4k will speed that up
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    Senior Member dshaves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodb View Post
    Using circles on the 4k will speed that up
    I do the Lynn method of 40 circles with pressure and 40 circles without pressure then 10 or so X stokes. It does work great don't get me wrong. I just wonder if I did those first 40 on the 2k then next 40 without pressure if that would produce a more refined scratch pattern? Or if the truth is there wouldn't be much of a difference then I will let the theory go
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