Thread: HELP! Evil, dull "factory-honed" razor won't sharpen.

The razor: C-MON Blackie 5/8" carbon-steel straight razor, "factory-honed"
The hones: DMT 325 grit, Naiwana 1k/8k, 0.1 micron / 0.3 micron pasted balsa wood
The progression: Naiwana 1k, Naiwana 8k, 0.3 micron balsa, 0.1 micron balsa

I've tried to hone this razor three times. I can get the edge to look sharp, but it won't even cut my soft forearm hair. In the hopes that a honemeister can find my flaw, here is what I do:

Lap Naiwana 1k/8k with DMT 325. Soak Naiwana for 15-20 mins. Tape razor's spine with 1 layer electrical tape. Remove Naiwana from water and place on flat table. Rest razor flat on stone and push down the stone and across for X-pattern, with only slightly more pressure than the weight of the razor itself. Re-applying water to stone when needed. Complete ~50 passes, then flip to 8k side and repeat with ~100 passes. Strop on 0.3 side of balsa with slightly more pressure than weight of razor itself ~50 passes, then flip to 0.1 side and strop ~100 passes.

Some more information about the razor and my experience: I have been straight-razor shaving for a year and I am just now trying to get into honing. I have successfully touched up my other razor (that which was perfectly-honed by Randy Tuttle [randydance] this past summer at the Kenosha, WI meet-up) with the pasted balsa wood a couple times. When I first received the C-MON Blackie this past summer, I was actually able to shave with it ~5 times after using the pasted balsa wood before it became too uncomfortable to use.

Please think critically about the issue I am having, and reply with any questions you may need answered in order to provide a solution.

Looking forward to hearing back from our awesome community!

-Mike

Try a little more pressure with the 1k and also look up "circles" Lynn has a great video with that technique, also don't move up in grit until it cuts arm hair from the 1k

+1 with robd.
I don't think you're getting the bevel set on the 1k. Both bevels have to meet to form the cutting edge. It can look, to the eye that they do, but in reality they haven't yet met. As robd said, "don't move up in grit until it cuts arm hair from the 1k."

Regards,

Howard

As stated above the bevel needs to be set before you move on the 8k. Once you are on the 8k stone make sure you spend enough time to remove the 1k scratches from the bevels.

I think it's a bit ambitious going from 1k -> 8k. I would also say 50 strokes won't cut it even if you've done it 3 times. As said above you will need to spend some time on the 8k & probably need to lap the hone during that stage. I'd suggest you're doing things the hard way & a mid range stone would help after a successful bevel set.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I think it's a bit ambitious going from 1k -> 8k. I would also say 50 strokes won't cut it even if you've done it 3 times. As said above you will need to spend some time on the 8k & probably need to lap the hone during that stage. I'd suggest you're doing things the hard way & a mid range stone would help after a successful bevel set.

Even as I TOTAL noob to the hones I would agree with this!! I'm doing JaNorton and from what I have read think you need something between the 1 & 8 I would say even having the Naniwa 3/8 will help you GREATLY! but YMMV and that's IMO as a noob!

Agreed. Grasping honing is hard enough, you don't need to make it harder on yourself by not having a 4,000 grit stone. You NEED one. Also, on the 8k, use slurry for 50 laps each side, then no slurry for 50 laps each side with no pressure on slurry and no slurry. Then, the pasted strop is still your friend

Another suggestion, I would soak the hones BEFORE you lap them with the DMT. Makes life easier

But yes, I would invest in a 4k hone. 1k -> 8k is a bit of a jump IMO. It can be done, but you'll likely spend a good while on the 8k that way.

Buy a 3k or 5k Naniwa, and life and honing will be much easier and faster. Nanis are great, they are on of my favourites.

As mentioned before, the 1k to 8k jump is a bit much. Also instead of counting strokes you should be paying attention to the reaction between the blade the water and the stone. Circles work wonders!