Thread: Microscope picture 10X power of a micro chip on a used rasor.

Originally Posted by Jimbo

I actually prefer the higher grit for that kind of thing though, as sometimes I think the 1K can exacerbate an edge that likes to get chippy. Depends on the hone, of course.

This is why they invented 2k & 3k stones

Originally Posted by onimaru55

This is why they invented 2k & 3k stones

I cannot bring myself to accept an odd numbered grit. It is just wrong.

James.

Then, may I suggest a 1200 grit followed by the 2 k of choice

I hate to pick at nits, but 3,000 is an even number.

I'm just saying.



Marcos

PS: so you know, my wife would just mutter under her breath "who invited the engineer?"

I hope you have already gotten a satisfactory answer, but here's my take for what it is worth...

You should gently breadknife this razor on a low grit plate of W/D Sandpaper. I use a DMT 325 myself.

If you gently rub the edge on the plate it will gradually take that down to the good steel. Don't go past the lowest point or you will be wasting good steel. Then you can hone it as usual on your hones.

Hope this helps!

M

Breadknifing always takes you past good steel. When you are finished breadknifing, you are at good steel, and your additional honing removes steel that should not be removed. I've yet to read a good argument for removing more steel than must be removed. Try 4K, and if you are not making progress, go down to 1K. Hone until the chip is gone and finish from there. Breadknifing is never justified unless you are making a breadknife.

To get past that chip I would take it to the 1K, working a little pressure, if you don't have a 1K you can rasie some slurry on the 4K to speed it up a bit.

Breadknifing will in most cases mean more work and time than if you just hone it out.

In my own defense, I was taught by gssixgun breadknifing to remove a chip, hence my reply. I have learned something here fellows, thank you!! I have a Shapleigh that exibits these exact symptoms and I have been wondering what to do, the micro chips are right at the toe, and just appear to be a ragged spot where the slight smile ends. I have also been told about over honing, so what happens to the rest of the blade when you keep taking it to a 1 or 4k to try and hone them out? Will you end up with a wire edge? or do you dull it before you start out again?

Thanks all!!

Mike

Originally Posted by mjhammer

In my own defense, I was taught by gssixgun breadknifing to remove a chip, hence my reply. I have learned something here fellows, thank you!! I have a Shapleigh that exibits these exact symptoms and I have been wondering what to do, the micro chips are right at the toe, and just appear to be a ragged spot where the slight smile ends. I have also been told about over honing, so what happens to the rest of the blade when you keep taking it to a 1 or 4k to try and hone them out? Will you end up with a wire edge? or do you dull it before you start out again?

You can avoid radical breadknifing on non major chips by freehanding the blade like a knife & gradually working back down to spine contact. Continued honing on a 1k will overhone the good areas as you repair the bad but a typical 1k edge is not super smooth anyway & any burr etc will be cleaned up as you progress, tho a light pass or 2 on the TNT or a glass will fold the burr over making it even more accessible to the next stone.
If you use magnification you need to educate your eyes to distinguish between microchips & a burr or wire edge. Microchips generally will not disappear on a TNT but a burr or wire usually does. The TNT can then have a dual purpose but I prefer a glass if I suspect a burr.

Breadknifing? That's a new term to me.

Define please.