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Thread: G10 Scale material review.

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    Doubles! OregonTy's Avatar
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    Default G10 Scale material review.

    G10 Review



    This product is a composite laminated fiberglass sheet measuring 3 x 12 x .130. It comes in many different colors and patterns available at many different sources throughout the internet. I use KnifeKits.com.

    WORKING WITH G10

    This product is somewhat difficult to work with but well worth the effort. I have tried to cut this product with hand tools with no luck. I don’t think that it is possible. I have heard that you can deeply score it the break it. I don’t think this would be a good idea for razor handles / scales due to the fact that they most often have radiuses and not straight lines. I’m quite sure that a radius would be very difficult to score and break. I have tried to use a band saw. This also turned out to be the wrong approach. The band saw blade was quickly turned into a butter knife. This product is very abrasive and actually caused sparks to be thrown from the band saw blade. The best way that I have found to cut this product is with a Dremel tool using abrasive cutting disks (uses about six disks to cut two handles). I then use Dremel sanding drums for the rough sanding / shaping of this product. This is when the fun begins. All of those rich colors start coming through during the sanding process. There are so many ways to shape a handle and reveal some really cool patterns / grains.



    PREPARATION

    I first begin by securing the G10 to my workbench with a vise clamp. I then take an old handle and use it as a guide to score a cut pattern on the G10. I like to use a thumb tack for the scoring. After the piece is traced I then cut it out using the Dremel with abrasive cutting disks.





    After the pieces are cut out I proceed to the grinder for final shaping.

    SAFETY

    It is very important when working with power tools that safety gear be used. I use safety glasses, latex gloves, and a filtration mask, as well as a dust collector. (Vacuum see photo above). The dust that is produced contains tiny airborne particles of fiberglass. This is not healthy to breath. The fiberglass can also be irritating to the skin (Itchy). Also keep in mind that the abrasive disks have a tendency to break apart when flexed or heated up excessively. The are spinning at a very high RPM and this can easily put out an eye if it breaks. NOTE: Every disk that I use throughout the process breaks apart and goes flying. I have not been able to avoid it. Safety glasses are a must! The dust from this product also gets on your clothing. Be aware of contaminating your house when coming in from the shop / garage. I also recommend using coveralls that can be left in the shop when done.

    FINISHING

    Very easy…..it comes in a can! After the desired shape is done and rough sanding is complete, I use 320 grit sandpaper to smooth out the surface then follow up with 400 grit. After the entire surface is smoothed out I apply two coats of polyurethaine spray. The spray comes in several finishes. I have been using semi-gloss. This was recommended by Floppyshoes. (Thanks Floppy)



    After letting them dry for several hours you are ready to mount up your new G10 scales.

    DURABILITY

    G10 is an extremely strong product. I was amazed at its strength. I tried to break off the piece that was traced above in the picture and could not manage to break it. G10 has been used for many years in the model aircraft field. Helicopter frames have been made with it. I have heard reports of high impact crashes with no damage to the airframes. This product is quite possibly on par with carbon-fiber. In any event it is more than adequate for making scales. I can not imagine any damage coming to them. Even under extreme abuse conditions. The product is also flexible but firm. A great attribute to have when making scales.

    ASTHETICS (very subjective)

    G10 produces a very modern look that may not appeal to everyone. I like it though. It is a great candidate for restorations of broken / damaged scales that are beyond repair.


    PRICE

    Current pricing is about $14.00 per sheet depending on the patterns / colors. Shipping is about $6.00.

    OVERALL OPPINION ON G10 1/2 out of 5 stars.

    What a great product! It does require some power tools to work it into scales. This can be a bit expensive if you don’t have a Dremel, vise clamps, vacuum, and grinder. These tools are a must IMO. It takes me about an hour to produce the scales from a sheet of G10. That does not include the finishing with polyurethaine. This takes several additional hours. About three hours total. I know this product is not for everyone but I like the results that I have been getting. I am completely new to this whole process of manufacturing scales and working with razors. I know results will vary depending on individuals skills. I would highly recommend this product.


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    Senior Member claytor's Avatar
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    Great explanation. Exactly what I was looking for concerning G10! Thanks.

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    I have had good experiences using a coping saw to cut micarta. I have yet to use G10 though, so it could be a different beast.

    Is that Black-Blue on the Wade and Butcher?

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    Doubles! OregonTy's Avatar
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    dnjrboy-Yep it be black blue 3d. I will try using a coping saw and see if that works. Im thinking it will not though. I will post after I try. I also have not tried micarta. I will be giving that a go soon.

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    Doubles! OregonTy's Avatar
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    Jigsaw with a bi-metal blade works well. Just tried it on two new scales.

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    The Razor Whisperer Philadelph's Avatar
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    G10 is much harder to use than a fabric micarta.

    Nice review but I would add some stuff-

    The best way to cut it is with a metal cutting bandsaw. The Dremel is a nightmare in comparison. Also, no finish spray or coat is needed if you finish it finely enough and buff, etc. I have never used any finish on any of my sets.

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    WORKSHOP:CUSTOMS:SOTD Maximilian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philadelph View Post
    G10 is much harder to use than a fabric micarta.

    Also, no finish spray or coat is needed if you finish it finely enough and buff, etc. I have never used any finish on any of my sets.
    Exactly what the guru master says.... + A million

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    OregonTy (02-26-2009)

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    Doubles! OregonTy's Avatar
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    I will be trying the metal band saw blade very soon. I will also try fine sanding and buffing. Thanks guys! Buffing material is ordered. Im gathering all tools slowly to do razor restorations. This is all new to me. I just got started with all of this 1-1 1/2 mo ago.

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    WORKSHOP:CUSTOMS:SOTD Maximilian's Avatar
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    Take a cooler with you and some snacks while you start sanding G10. Make sure to progress through all the grits and take your time. It's a PITA but worth the effort. If you don't uniform and properly sand with each grit you'll end up with some left over scratches moving forward. It's a drag to go back to the lower grits each and every time trying to remove those. So always double check before going to the next higher grit.
    Do not inhale the G10 saw dust either when cutting or dry sanding and watch out for any splinters or particles flying around when sawing. At least try to avoid it. When wet sanding you're fine.
    Last edited by Maximilian; 03-01-2009 at 12:34 PM.

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    Doubles! OregonTy's Avatar
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    Ok....I have finished my first complet hand sanding set of scales. This, IMO, is the only way to get the scales uniform and looking great. I first did a rough shaping with the Dremel then worked my way up to 800 grit. At this point I dont think that buffing is necessary. I have yet to try buffing it. I will try this very soon. I will be posting pictures of the new scales that have been hand sanded ASAP.
    Last edited by OregonTy; 03-10-2009 at 01:55 PM.

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