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Thread: Chromium Oxide Paste on hard linen

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    Default Chromium Oxide Paste on hard linen

    Hey all,

    One of my razors was rather unfriendly recently (the last shave before the Zowada arrived) and I think it needs a session with the Chromium - here is what I have

    http://www.straightrazordesigns.com/...paste-5-micron

    I can get the razor sharp on my Swaty + Stropping but not smooth. So, am I right in assuming that I apply the paste to the linen with the same level of delicacy as Lynn applies the powder+liquid version in his tutorial - light and sparingly? Also, I assume I just use the stick of paste directly to the linen - is this right?

    Thanks in advance.

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    Default

    slightly off-topic...because I'm interested in this exact thing.

    what tutorial? I've been looking for a good video tutorial of how to paste a strop and even in my short time here I've learned that Lynn is a few kinds of awesome.

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    I saw it a while ago, I believe it's part of the Wiki content.

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    Default

    This paste or crayon is actually quite good. I just rub it on the linen until you start to see the color on the linen. Don't cake it on. Once it's covered, then just 10-15 very light strokes and it should wake up the razor. Actually sometimes, just 5 strokes will work, so try less first.

    Have fun,

    Lynn
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  5. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to Lynn For This Useful Post:

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    thank you Lynn. Will do!

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    Yeah..I must agree with Lynn...don't cake it on. One time I put Chrom-Oxde. on my linen strop, and at first I didn't use enough paste...so afterwards, I put it on fairly heavy...and boy-oh-boy did I regret it. For one, it removed so much metal that it actually dulled the razor. And in fact, I could actually see the removal of the metal with every few laps. A lesson learned!

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    I've had a love hate relationship with CrO. I have tried it on leather and hard linen with pretty good results, but I am very content with liquid CrO painted on balsa. It has a nice feel and you can stroke it as you would your hone. As already mentioned, start with fewer strokes and light pressure, then leather strop and HHT or ST. Go again if it needs more. I can go several months this way before honing the edge again.

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    Default tape?

    I have a related question. when using Cro-Ox should you tape the spine to protect it like you would on a hone? If you use a layer of tape when honing do you use a layer of tape to keep the angle the same on Cro-Ox?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmbbabson View Post
    I have a related question. when using Cro-Ox should you tape the spine to protect it like you would on a hone? If you use a layer of tape when honing do you use a layer of tape to keep the angle the same on Cro-Ox?
    Tape is only needed if you have the CrOx on balsa IMO.

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    Default TO TAPE OR NOT TO TAPE - THAT IS THE QUESTION

    This is actually a very good question.

    You should typically use the same method (angle) that you were using on the stone, especially if you are trying to protect an ornate spine. However, at 0.5 microns CrO averages around 30,000 grit +/-?K. This is a very fine polish indeed and will probably just create a mirror finish on your spine. The other reason tape may not be critical is the pliability of the medium (i.e. leather, linen, paddle or balsa). By the way, on balsa I have never been left with a green residue on the blade - very clean medium. With or without tape, even with a light touch you should get pretty good coverage at the edge. OK, I have tried it both ways and found little difference.

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