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Thread: The Butchered Blade

  1. #21
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeB52 View Post
    Great ideas and pics Tom.
    So glad I got busy on other projects before your and Euclid's replies.
    The idea of the cardboard mock up, and the pics of your reshaping are going to help immensely.
    Cheers and keep at it...
    Delve on in, Mike! I have found that treating this stabilizer mod is a progressive thing. I have attempted it all at once and was a disaster. Getting everything even is key, Getting it smooth makes for a better-looking job.
    Too much heat leads to a wreck, so a little at a time is preferable to me. At some point, I run my fingers down the edge across where the stabilizer was and convince myself I feel no 'bump' so I tape the spine with a few layers and swoop it very lightly upon a worn DMT for a few and look it over. Very telling as to how much more it needs and where. No rush.
    I am thinking of a tip treatment. Perhaps something about the grob. I am still uncertain of the angle I used on the end. I am satisfied whatever I finally decide will benefit from the initial grinding. French point? I have no idea and shan't until I get a proper heel and bevel. Time to lay it aside and work upon it a bit at a time.
    Working upon the scales some brings ideas forth. Perhaps a change in that direction.
    Such a big, hefty tang may do with a nice thumbnotch? Who knows?
    Your turn, My Friend!
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  2. #22
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srdjan View Post
    I was waiting for this. Well done so far, I would also try and give it back the smile. A bit worrying though, looks like you can easily get too close to the shoulder and the notch while grinding away. I'm with the mentioned approach to hone the smile back in, gradually. I'd probably protect the spine with a few layers of tape and use a coarse stone.

    For filling the holes and voids I normally use Bison 5-minute epoxy (the red one) and if I need a bit more time, I use a little less hardener. It's flexible, kinda stiff rubbery even when used in 50-50 mix, which I like for the scales. I didn't notice that it shrinks at all. I don't usually use bakelite (which works just fine), but some scrap ebony I have laying around. I make a bit of dust with say, 600 grit paper and I found you don't need much at all to turn the epoxy pitch black.
    Why don't you grab an old one and join us? Let's get some participation going.
    A wonkey old Sheffield. Let's fix them up and get some tips. Should be fun!
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  4. #23
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    I thin stabilizers with a Dremel and fine grit drum sander. A variable speed Dremel and a flex shaft make the process easier and safer, use a slow speed, final polish and shape with wet & dry.

    Tape the part of the edge you do not want to mess up with thin cardboard and duct tape for extra protection against a slip. Get close and sneak up on the final profile of the smile with a hand diamond file from EZ Lap. They are not that expensive and are great for repairing hooked heels.

    Rest the razor on the spine and shape, one stroke at a time.
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  6. #24
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    I thin stabilizers with a Dremel and fine grit drum sander. A variable speed Dremel and a flex shaft make the process easier and safer, use a slow speed, final polish and shape with wet & dry.

    Tape the part of the edge you do not want to mess up with thin cardboard and duct tape for extra protection against a slip. Get close and sneak up on the final profile of the smile with a hand diamond file from EZ Lap. They are not that expensive and are great for repairing hooked heels.

    Rest the razor on the spine and shape, one stroke at a time.
    Build one with Me and Mike! Get a project going here.
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  7. #25
    " Atta Boy!!" sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Euclid440 View Post
    I thin stabilizers with a Dremel and fine grit drum sander. A variable speed Dremel and a flex shaft make the process easier and safer, use a slow speed, final polish and shape with wet & dry.

    Tape the part of the edge you do not want to mess up with thin cardboard and duct tape for extra protection against a slip. Get close and sneak up on the final profile of the smile with a hand diamond file from EZ Lap. They are not that expensive and are great for repairing hooked heels.

    Rest the razor on the spine and shape, one stroke at a time.
    Yes, I use this little hand-sander at the very end. Keeps me from overdoing things!

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    Back to templates, a good idea though I rarely use them. I seem to go with what I like.
    Figured I would see how I did on matching smile to the spine.....Seems I like things a bit radical! The width IS the same all the way across, however!

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    Last edited by sharptonn; 08-11-2015 at 04:26 PM.

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    Junior Tinkerer Srdjan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    Why don't you grab an old one and join us? Let's get some participation going.
    A wonkey old Sheffield. Let's fix them up and get some tips. Should be fun!
    You know, I might just take you up on that!
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  10. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srdjan View Post
    You know, I might just take you up on that!
    The more the merrier Srdjan. A WB rebuilding thread.
    Bring out your worn, your rusty, your disassembled!!!!
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    Junior Tinkerer Srdjan's Avatar
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    The problem is that I have nothing beat up to work on at the moment, but I can share a recent salvation of a heel on my Cadman Bengall. Maybe something will come up again soon

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  12. #29
    Str8Faced Gent. MikeB52's Avatar
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    Spent some time tracing and trimming cardboard. Trying to match the spine curve best I can.
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    Nice heel recovery on that Bengall sir.
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  13. #30
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    Give it a bit more, Mike!

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