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Thread: First Restoration

  1. #11
    Senior Member Paul76's Avatar
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    if The flying projectile part of using a deemed isn’t bad enough, when sanding or polishing they will cause noticeable wave in the razors finish. It’s best to use something round and easy to hold like a bottle cork. That was advice from geezer on a previous thread, I believe. I sand mine to a 2k using wd-40 and then mothers mag and aluminum polish with a soft cotton cloth. A lot of etching will disappear with any sort of sanding since most are very shallow. So take your time and be careful. Best of luck and take pics along the way.
    outback, Porl and Dieseld like this.

  2. #12
    Senior Member YoWan's Avatar
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    Hi. If you know someone working in medical sector, like a dentist or a nurse at surgery department, you can ask what they use for their material like endoscopic tubes or other clamps. I personnally use WipAnios, wipe clothes used for that purpose in Europe. There is also Steranios ans Hexanios (TM) that need to be diluted to 5% ; you need to follow precisely the recommended timing, otherwise the product begins to be corrosive. I don't know brand names of same kind of products overseas.
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  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    A perfect candidate for what I call a " quick clean".
    No need for unpinning, and nothing more than steel wool n WD40, followed by metal polish. Or my favorite.. Cut the active rust off the blade with a single edge razor blade, then clean and polish with 3M metal restorer/polish.

    There's not enough steel to warrant any sanding, without compromising the integrity of the blade, plus you'll loose the etch.
    If you plan to hone your own, I recommend you get a 1000 chosera along side that 4000/8000 combo, then later you can pick up a 12000 finisher.

    As for sanitizing...Purell hand sanitizer works great.

    Best of luck, yell if ya need help.!
    Mike

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Porl View Post
    I don't have much experience with restoration, but I go with the less is more camp. Nothing too harsh and take my time. The couple of blades I have had a go at I have allowed much of the staining to remain rather than risk the blade. I actually like it that way too as I think it adds authenticity to the blade.

    That is a nice razor you have there, I believe the etching is William Shakespeare and the text is taken from Love's Labour's Lost and the razor may be a "Keen" George Butler. If so I don't think the end has been re-shaped that much. I think the original may have a rounder point.

    "The tongues of mocking wenches are as keen
    As is the razor's edge invisible,
    Cutting a smaller hair than may be seen."
    That is a cool piece of history thank you for sharing that.

    Cheers

  5. #15
    Member portlandrazorco's Avatar
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    Looks like a great first restoration project! +1 for trying the more gentle rust-removal techniques first (steel wool and WD40, then wet/dry sandpaper starting with 600-800 grit). Barbicide is the way to go for disinfection after you've removed all the rust you want. If you do use Barbicide, be sure to read the instructions for proper dilution and timing and DON'T expose the scales. Barbicide likes to devour organic and inorganic plastics alike. Good luck!
    -- Handcrafted Straight Razors & Strops in Portland, OR--

  6. #16
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    Hello all, sorry for the late update but here is the end result or mostly the end result of my first restoration. I am still looking for a hone in the 8000 and 10000 grit format to finish the blade but the rest is done. In the end I simply used the Mother Metal Polish and a wine cork (thanks for that tip definitely saved my fingers). I did get a mirror finish but I reserved any heavy buffing or grinding for fear of losing the script. Thanks all for your help stay tuned for the next one it a little more involved, I have to replace the scales...
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