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Thread: Vintage style Thrust/Bearing Internal Washers

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Default Vintage style Thrust/Bearing Internal Washers

    I remembered reading on here about the super thin internal washers that are found in the vintage razors, when yer replacing them with the #0 wides from Microfasteners...... The problem is that the ones from Microfasteners are a little too thick and tend to make for a not so pretty setup, they work fine, but they just don't look as nice.. Some of the restorers have gone to using nylon ones now, but I haven't tried that yet. so I don't know how they look... Up until today, I have never had a problem, as every razor I take apart, I keep the thin bearing washers and clean them up....
    So today, after realizing that I didn't have any for this blade, I had to make some, and here is how I did it
    I guess you could actually cut and drill them from very thin brass stock, no way, not me... way to much work
    I guess you could take the ones from Micro and sand them down Hmmmmm to much work, and they are still just a touch small
    So me, I figured if all else fails, bring out the big guns yep I used a BFH and made my own.. (for the uninformed a BFH is a Big F---ing Hammer)
    I took the #0 wides from Micro put one on the anvil side of my bench vise and smacked the crap outta it a few times and Voilą a perfect vintage style washer for between the scales and the tang , way to easy

    Isn't hammered brass tuffer too
    Last edited by gssixgun; 07-18-2008 at 01:12 PM.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    That is a great idea.

    Charlie

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    Senior Member floppyshoes's Avatar
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    They might be ugly, but I like the increased space the unmodified #0W washers provide. Less chance of water being held in there by capilary force. Still a good idea though.

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    WORKSHOP:SOTD:CUSTOMS Maximilian's Avatar
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    Actually I do use the nylon ones a lot. You don't need to tighten the pivot as much since the nylon washers just keep a more steady tightened friction. Depending on the pin hole on the blade I also would use the regular #0 washers. I only use the #0 wide washers with thicker and bigger blades that have a bigger pin hole and use a wider scale. Like you said the 0# wide washers from microfasteners are a tad on the thick side and depending the setup can look a bit off. That's why there's several options.

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    For the first time ever, I made some scales and the only part of the process that disappointed me apart from my technical errors was the chunkiness of the pins and washers.

    I used brass BA10 nuts bolts and washers. the thread circumference being 1.7mm the US 0-80 thread being 1.6mm. So not such a great difference there.

    A good razor should not have ruff edges. It's an object that should feel balanced, smooth and tactile. Nuts and bolts and washers just don't do it for me. They are simple solution it's true but a backwards step in my opinion.

    So next time, I will try the old fashioned pins and eyelets and thin thin washers and hammering the **** out of the brass washers I have remaining sounds a very satisfying proposition.

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    The Razor Whisperer Philadelph's Avatar
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    I do agree with Dan about the increased space between scales. I usually blow any excess water after a shave out of that area with ease to allow for quicker drying with the thick washers. I have also wondered about making thinner washers though and have thought about hammering. One question Glen- How do you keep the internal hole the same size (i.e. not let the brass expand into the hole as well as out around the edges- that brass needs to go somewhere!)? If there's no way, do you just re-drill the center?

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philadelph View Post
    I do agree with Dan about the increased space between scales. I usually blow any excess water after a shave out of that area with ease to allow for quicker drying with the thick washers. I have also wondered about making thinner washers though and have thought about hammering. One question Glen- How do you keep the internal hole the same size (i.e. not let the brass expand into the hole as well as out around the edges- that brass needs to go somewhere!)? If there's no way, do you just re-drill the center?

    The funny thing was it just didn't happen, I was prepared to re-drill, I didn't do anything but smack them a few times and the hole didn't deform at all...Soooooo either I am a lucky SOB or it just works that way.... I made 8 of them and not a problem, wierd huh????
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    Life is short, filled with Stuff joke1176's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    ...Isn't hammered brass tuffer too

    You are an animal! Sounds crude but effective though.

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    JAS eTea, LLC netsurfr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    I took the #0 wides from Micro put one on the anvil side of my bench vise and smacked the crap outta it a few times and Voilą a perfect vintage style washer for between the scales and the tang , way to easy
    Isn't hammered brass tuffer too
    This reminds me of a saying we used to have when I was a professional auto mechanic in another lifetime: "If it don't go, don't force it; get a bigger hammer."

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    Senior Member Milton Man's Avatar
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    Glen - I read this and actually gaffawed out loud! I like your approach, and will have to give it a go someday! Great story!

    Mark

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