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Thread: Some tricks to popping pins out...

  1. #1
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Some tricks to popping pins out...

    Now there are a few ways to release pins on razors, and most are described in the Workshop sticky and the Wiki so I am just going to touch on them to refresh your memories..

    Flush Cutter
    Drill Press
    File
    Dremel Cutoff wheel
    Jeweler's saw
    Push drill

    All of these work and they all have good and bad points to them... But no matter the way you release the collars and pins, sooner or later the pins have to come out of there...
    This is normally where the problems start, as there are a few good reasons why they don't want to come out..

    Rust
    Glue
    Percussion swelling
    Bent

    Here are a couple of tips to getting them out with out cracking a scale...
    I have posted many of these at different times but I was working on a 7 day set of razors this week and was popping 21 pins
    I really really did not want to crack any scales since it was a set so I was using many of these tricks and thought while they were fresh in my brain I would post them...

    So lets imagine that you have released one side of the pin, the method you used is a moot point the collar is off...
    Now you have a pin that still has a slight peen mushroom on the end and this is the first mistake that you can make.. This has to come off first, I use either a micro set of Nippers or Dyke's to cut the peen off so that the pin has no flair at all..Watch for a percussion buldge right below the peen, this can get you also... now I use a 1/16 Pin Punch to start driving the pin out

    Widget Supply: Search

    There are several styles...


    I have no intention of driving the pin completely out on this first try, sometimes it happens but I never push it..
    I tap with the same light taps as I use to peen a pin (remember the rule, if it hurts hitting the top of yer fingernail with your hammer it is too hard) I tap until the other side of the pin is pushed out enough to get a pair of flush cutters under there and I clip the other side of the pin.. Now I have two sides free, and I attack the pin from both directions, this really helps with bent pins, as you can tap them out a little at a time, clip the pin and go from the opposite side, until they come free... This two sided attack is near foolproof but rusted pins can still get you...
    Another trick for the rusted pins, two drops of Kriol and 1 hour makes the rusted pins almost fall out... this trick is one of my best for the old Sheffield razors as most of those pins are rusted solid...
    This works best once you have both sides clipped and you use a drop from each side... But it still helps when attacking from one side too...
    Another little warning... the 3rd pin on many razors is a smaller diameter then the wedge or pivot pin so be very carefully driving it out with the 1/16 pin punch as it can be tight, and don't lose the center post

    Last but a dangerous one, the wedge pin is normally the one that is going to get you, sometimes because you think you are home free Watch the wedge itself, the pin can hang there and then crack a scale as you try and drive it free... Again attacking from both sides helps with this...
    Watch for the glued in wedge as many times the pin is glued along with it this is exceptionally bad but many light taps from both sides normally pops it free...

    As with everything else when restoring razors TAKE YOUR TIME !!!

    Remember this saying "Rush a Restore, and Wreck a Razor"

    Hope this helps to save at least one set of scales from the trash heap

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  3. #2
    Scale Maniac BKratchmer's Avatar
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    Take home notes for EVERYONE:
    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    "Rush a Restore, and Wreck a Razor"
    Glen is giving the absolute best advice in the world, right here...

  4. #3
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    I like to work the pins out on my drill press. I can align the table such that the parts of the scale right above and below the pin sit on the table while there is a hole under the pin. This splints the scales on both the tang and the table of the drill press, which gives great support to both scales, while still allowing me to push out the pin. Aside from the splinting effect, I also like using the drill press because of the amount of control it gives me with the pressure I apply to the pin; I can apply constant pressure (no tapping), and I am able to modulate the pressure very easily.

    After de-peening one side, my first attack is typically to shut the drill press off and give a gentle push with the drill bit (drill off). Most of the time, this will push the pin through the top scale. If that is the case, I remove that side of the scales and the blade itself. I can then re-cut either side of the pin and push through either way. Depending on which way I'm pushing, I may put the blade back to use it as a splint again.

    If I am unable to free the scale on the first side, I will almost always have pushed the pin through far enough that I can flip the razor over and use cutters to snip off the opposite peen. I can then push back in the opposite direction to see if that way will work. Usually, one way or the other will work, and it's just a matter of re-cutting for the second scale to come off.

    It's not fool proof, and it doesn't always work, but I find it pretty reliable.
    Dllandry likes this.

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    Senior Member str8fencer's Avatar
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    Great write-up Glen, thanks. I've cracked too many nice old scales as it is, perhaps this post will help me improve. Nice restore mantra as well, I'll print it and stick it on my shop wall

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    Thanks, maybe this will end my so far untarnished record ruining scales while trying to remove pins. Thanks again.

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    jamesm (12-20-2012)

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