Polishing Your Straight Razor

Ols67

This is my best razor ever ! No really !
Gents,

I have tried Flitz and I have tried Maas metal polishes on straight razors to polish them, and to remove the odd water spot here and there.

In my experience Mass is superior to Flitz, and I just use a small dab of it with a q-tip doing small circles until the q-tip is dirty...then I use a clean one, and repeat until the polish and grime are gone. Then I use a microfiber cloth to get any of the polish that I missed.

I finish it off with an alcohol wipe, and ensure everything is dry with a clean soft cloth.

What is your experience between the two? Any products better techniques that you will share?

Thanks!

Vr

Matt
 
In my opinion, Flitz is more aggressive than Maas.
I will often start with Mass, if it doesn't do the job, then I move to Flitz, then I go back to Maas for a final rub down to even out the surface finish.
 

Ols67

This is my best razor ever ! No really !
In my opinion, Flitz is more aggressive than Maas.
I will often start with Mass, if it doesn't do the job, then I move to Flitz, then I go back to Maas for a final rub down to even out the surface finish.
I find the opposite! Perhaps you have more experience, or maybe maas outperformed glitz in the particular cases I have used!

Who knows!?

Vr

Matt
 

Lou Mowan

Snake River Razors, Admin
Staff member
I don’t polish very often. If you get the polish on the edge, it’ll probably need to be honed again. A little Renaissance wax seems to help in keeping water stains from starting.
Here is a trick I have used for years. It allows one to polish your blade without affecting the edge.
Lay a paper towel (Folded so its double layer) on the countertop or other flat surface. Lay the blade on the towel tilted at about 20-25 degrees. The blade edge is now resting in the towel, protected. Use your finger with some maas or whatever you prefer on a rag to polish. You wont damage the edge and wont slice your finger. I have done it hundreds of times
 

Salamander

Well-known member
I've found little need to polish my razors and some are quite old. Daily use and proper maintenance seems to leave them in very nice condition with a bit of patina. These old relics have survived two world wars and many professional shaves. I doubt my occasional use will do any harm.
 

Vicpr

Member
I've used Maas, I prefer Mother's Billet in a can (in the US) and in the UK I got a paste called Peek that works better for me than Maas.
I'll probably check that Renaissance Wax, because that's easy to get here. And I'm definitely going to use Lou's technique next time I polish. I like patina, but have to keep an eye for waterspots because of the humidity.
 

Slawman

New Old Member
I am getting ready to go out and work on the W&B Special 5/8" I got this weekend. I have most all the polishes so I will let you know what works best for me!
 

Slawman

New Old Member
I have found I really like "NU FINISH" Car Polish on most anything metal. The stuff just works!

Slawman
 

RHensley

Resident Hand Model
Before honing i use the green polishing compound and a buffing wheel on the drill press then after that I use Simi crome to clean. I then use soft scrub with Clorox to clean . after that I soak in alcohol then dry with a tissue and hone. I find this works well . Of course after this I just strop and shave. after shaving I clean strop and set aside. Always keep a razor away from moisture when not in use.
 

RHensley

Resident Hand Model
Before honing i use the green polishing compound and a buffing wheel on the drill press then after that I use Simi crome to clean. I then use soft scrub with Clorox to clean . after that I soak in alcohol then dry with a tissue and hone. I find this works well . Of course after this I just strop and shave. after shaving I clean strop and set aside. Always keep a razor away from moisture when not in use.
Now I forgot to add something. If the razor has top or bottom jimps I clean them with a either a small hand held wire brush or a wire brush on a dermal. I've found cheap dermal at harber freight.
 

RHensley

Resident Hand Model
Depending on how bad or how rough a razor is tells me what to use to clean and polish it . If it is very bad I use wet dry sand paper starting with 220 and ending in 2000 grit. You have to be real careful to keep from being cut. Now if it's not that bad I use other methods from a felt buffing pad on a dremal to a drill press with different buffing pads. This is a photo of my work bench. I work with anything from sharpening chain saws to making scales for razors and it's pretty simple set up. I've also built a few muzzle loaders (Kentucky longs) down in the basement. work bench.jpg
 

Rico

Active member
Thank you! Very informative, and impressive. I particularly enjoyed seeing in the picture what is very important to accompany the work and to help keep it all running smoothly...the Folgers Coffee located on the bottom left of the bench:)
 

RHensley

Resident Hand Model
Thank you! Very informative, and impressive. I particularly enjoyed seeing in the picture what is very important to accompany the work and to help keep it all running smoothly...the Folgers Coffee located on the bottom left of the bench:)
The red can is a little further under the bench. I drink leaded until 12 noon then I switch to unleaded. I get the buffing wheels from a discount hardware store because they are cheap and I go through several . I may stop doing this for a few months because decent razor for a good price is getting hard to find but it's easier to find them in the winter months. rifle 5.jpgrifle 4.jpg I may build another one of these this summer.
 

Rico

Active member
Absolutely Beautiful. Looking at those makes me think of one thing...
there should be some room made for a bottle of good sour mash or bourbon whiskey under the bench as well, and, some tobacco for good smoke, for after all the good work is done.
Well done.
 
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