Wade & Butcher Find - Where to Start?

Leatherstockings

Well-known member
Hello, all!

This weekend I sorted through a pile of razors at an antique store. I bought a Wade & Butcher that was one of the few that didn’t have excessive hone wear or wasn’t cracked or otherwise unsalvageable. I used steel wool and WD-40 to take off the active rust.

Where would you start on this blade. I don’t have a grinder so compound and cloth wheels are not an option.
 

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Bill M

Active member
I think you have a nice find.

I’m not much of a restore guy, so for the ones I’ve done I used an automobile metal polish to deal with rust. There might be better options though… Flitz?

The pitting remains in mine. I imagine it would take sanding material away to take it out.

Be well
 

Slawman

New Old Member
I have a Dremel that I like a lot. They are great if used properly. I found that the main thing to keep in mine is the direction of rotation. I just about cut my index finger off by going into the edge the wrong way. I am sure many others here have done this when starting out with a rotary hand tool.
BE CAREFUL brother!
Slawman
 

Bogie

I'm not looking at you !
A Dremel and flitz polish has worked for me, but a member on another board post recommended 3M Marine polish. I ordered a tub @ $31 so I'm hoping for amazing results. I'm trying to polish an Wade and Butcher with blade etching without dimishing the etch. Right now the razor with its horn scales are resting their second day in neatsfoot oil.
The advice on care using a dremel is well founded. Fortunately no cuts and no damage but I take great care on speed and rotation. I have used felt wheels and small wire wheels with good success. Wire wheel works well to remove tarnish and rust between the scales near the pin, you must be attentive not to damage the horn.
 

jaro1069

Administrator
Staff member
I fully agree with taking care using ANY power tools on razors. Be careful to avoid going in the wrong direction or staying in one area for too long so as not to heat the blade and mess with the tempering of the blade. Also Use care to avoid damaging your blade / scales , or yourself....
 

Bogie

I'm not looking at you !
Just tried some 3M marine polish for the first time. After about five minutes, I couldn't resist and out came the dremel with a felt wheel. Every vintage blade I use was cleaned up with a dremel an the polish dujour. Flitz, Maas, and now 3M. All good, All better with the dremel . If you are going to set a new bevel, the dremel can move along the blade edge toe to heel. You can also use the dremel all the way to the edge using the rotation in the direction as it goes off the blade never against the edge. Polishing the edge helps see the chips or the extent of the bevel repair needed. Mostly, after using a dremel to polish the edge, I will set a new bevel with a 1K Shapton and I have had good success, It just requires you to recognize the direction of the dremel vs the blade parts and pay close attention so you always end up off the edges as opposed to leading onto an edge. I've never heated a blade with a felt wheel to effect the temper. Not saying you can't, just saying when it gets hot to the touch, move to another area or let it cool. I love seeing the folks here polish the old vintage blades to the mirror shine. I don't have that skilset. I clean them up, remove all the rust, shine them as much as I can then put a shaving edge on them and call it a day.
 

Pun1sh3R

One Batch, Two Batch, Penny, And Dime.
For the hand work, Lay the blade flat with edge flat on some leather or News Paper.

I recommend starting with the finest grit. Scratches from too aggressive of a grit can be tough to get out by hand.

If going to rotary tool, monitor heat. You don't want to ruin the original temper. If you can't touch it with bare skin, it's too hot.

Take your time, restoration isn't a fast task.

Frank
 

Slawman

New Old Member
I have found Nu Finish car polish to be the best polish I have ever used. It has little cleaning ability but the polish on all metal. plastic & paint is just great.
Slawman
 
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